Fuchsia

Flowers - multi-colored bowls

Latin name Fuchsia
Homeland South America, Falkland Islands, New Zealand
Family Onagraceae
Cultivation simple
Location well-lit
Temperature 15-20 °C in summer, 10 °C in winter
Watering moderate
Flowering time june to october
Height 40-80 cm, larger for tree - like specimens
Transplanting in early spring
Appearance maintenance prune the shoots in early spring

The genus Fuchsia (Fuchsia) includes about 100 species that surprise with the beauty of drooping flowers that bloom in summer and bloom until the beginning of autumn. The tubular calyx is divided into four lobes, and the corolla consists of four superimposed petals. Their color ranges from pink and red to purple, and sometimes white. Often the calyx (usually not green) and the corolla are colored differently. Oval or lanceolate leaves of this deciduous plant are collected in three. Fuchsias, depending on the species, are shrubby, tree-like (in the conditions of natural growth) or carpet. Fuchsia glistening (Fuchsia fulgens), which originated from Mexico, is a shrub with a light red stem and heart-shaped leaves. Scarlet-red flowers, collected in apical brushes, bloom in late summer. Fuchsia Magellana (F. magellanica) is native to Mexico, Peru, Chile and the Falkland Islands. This is also a shrubby and small-capricious plant with small oval leaves. Flowers with a cream-red calyx and purple corolla; long stamens are located in the center. Of the many varieties and hybrid forms, the most popular are: 'White' with pale pink flowers, 'Thin' with narrow leaves and fragile flowers, dwarf 'Squat' with red and purple flowers. The peculiarity of the fuchsia recumbens (F. procumbens), which originated from New Zealand, is that it is actually a creeping carpet plant. And Fuchsia triphylla (F. triphylla), native to Haiti, has large orange-red flowers and leaves with a serrated edge. Almost exclusively hybrids and varieties are grown that are obtained by crossing sparkling fuchsia and Magellan fuchsia. There are a great many such hybrid varieties and forms. They differ from each other in the shape of the flower, the degree of double coverage, the color of the calyx and corolla, the type of stem, as well as their use (on balconies, flower beds, in borders). For example, the variety 'Alice Hoffman' - has flowers with a carmine calyx and white corollas. The flowers of 'Brilliant' are scarlet and crimson. Charm has red calyces and red-purple corollas. Princess Dollar flowers have carmine calyxes and purple corollas.

The genus Fuchsia (Fuchsia) includes about 100 species that surprise with the beauty of drooping flowers that bloom in summer and bloom until the beginning of autumn. The tubular calyx is divided into four lobes, and the corolla consists of four superimposed petals. Their color ranges from pink and red to purple, and sometimes white. Often the calyx (usually not green) and the corolla are colored differently. Oval or lanceolate leaves of this deciduous plant are collected in three. Fuchsias, depending on the species, are shrubby, tree-like (in the conditions of natural growth) or carpet.

Fuchsia glistening (Fuchsia fulgens), which originated from Mexico, is a shrub with a light red stem and heart-shaped leaves. Scarlet-red flowers, collected in apical brushes, bloom in late summer.

Fuchsia Magellana (F. magellanica) is native to Mexico, Peru, Chile and the Falkland Islands. This is also a shrubby and small-capricious plant with small oval leaves. Flowers with a cream-red calyx and purple corolla; long stamens are located in the center. Of the many varieties and hybrid forms, the most popular are: 'White' with pale pink flowers, 'Thin' with narrow leaves and fragile flowers, dwarf 'Squat' with red and purple flowers.

The peculiarity of the fuchsia recumbens (F. procumbens), which originated from New Zealand, is that it is actually a creeping carpet plant.

And Fuchsia triphylla (F. triphylla), native to Haiti, has large orange-red flowers and leaves with a serrated edge.

Almost exclusively hybrids and varieties are grown that are obtained by crossing sparkling fuchsia and Magellan fuchsia. There are a great many such hybrid varieties and forms. They differ from each other in the shape of the flower, the degree of double coverage, the color of the calyx and corolla, the type of stem, as well as their use (on balconies, flower beds, in borders). For example, the variety 'Alice Hoffman' - has flowers with a carmine calyx and white corollas. The flowers of 'Brilliant' are scarlet and crimson. Charm has red calyces and red-purple corollas. Princess Dollar flowers have carmine calyxes and purple corollas.

Cultivation

Fuchsias are grown in flower beds and borders, on balconies and terraces, and, of course, as indoor plants. But in any case, they prefer a well-ventilated, moist place. During the winter dormancy period, the leaves are dropped. During this period, they should be protected from frost: potted plants are kept in a cool, unheated room, and for garden plants it is recommended to mulch the soil with straw or peat. In spring and summer, it is recommended to add liquid fertilizer to the water for irrigation.

Location

Fuchsias require a well-lit or semi-shaded area. But in any case, they do not like direct sunlight.

Temperature

In winter, the optimal temperature is about 10 °C, and in summer-15-20 °C. You need to make sure that the temperature does not rise above 20-25 °C.

Watering

Fuchsias do not like both insufficient and excessive watering. The plants are sprayed regularly, maintaining a moderate humidity environment.

Transplant

If necessary, at the end of winter, indoor specimens grown in pots are transplanted to new ones filled with soft, fertile, dry, well-drained soil. Pots should always be slightly larger than the previous ones.

Care

In March, the plant is pruned to give it shape and increase the growth of new shoots, which are shortened, in turn, by about 1/3 of the length.

In March, the plant is pruned to give it shape and increase the growth of new shoots, which are shortened, in turn, by about 1/3 of the length.

Reproduction

The most common and simple method is cuttings, since rooting is easy. In March-April (in this case, you can use material from pruning) or August-September, cuttings 8-10 cm long are taken from young shoots, which are planted in a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts. They are covered with a piece of plastic film and kept at a temperature of 16-18 °C and a certain level of humidity. At the beginning of their development, they are pinched (the tops are removed). This stimulates the development of branches and strengthens the plant. When the seedlings develop sufficiently, they can be transplanted into large pots or planted on a permanent planting site. Fuchsia seeds can also be propagated. But the process is long, and the properties of the resulting seedlings are usually somewhat different than the mother plant. Sowing of seeds is carried out in March-April, in a mixture of sand and peat, taken in equal parts. The recommended temperature is 15-16 °C, and moderate humidity is maintained. After the emergence of their shoots pinch and sequentially transplant.

The most common and simple method is cuttings, since rooting is easy. In March-April (in this case, you can use material from pruning) or August-September, cuttings 8-10 cm long are taken from young shoots, which are planted in a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts. They are covered with a piece of plastic film and kept at a temperature of 16-18 °C and a certain level of humidity.

At the beginning of their development, they are pinched (the tops are removed). This stimulates the development of branches and strengthens the plant. When the seedlings develop sufficiently, they can be transplanted into large pots or planted on a permanent planting site. Fuchsia seeds can also be propagated. But the process is long, and the properties of the resulting seedlings are usually somewhat different than the mother plant. Sowing of seeds is carried out in March-April, in a mixture of sand and peat, taken in equal parts. The recommended temperature is 15-16 °C, and moderate humidity is maintained. After the emergence of their shoots pinch and sequentially transplant.

Diseases

In addition to the direct harm caused by aphids (they suck the juices out of the plant, which causes wilting and deformation of leaves and shoots), insects also cause indirect harm - blackness develops on the paddy. To control aphids, you should use a rag or cotton swab, after moistening them with alcohol, after which the plant is treated with a special insecticide (a drug against aphids). On the reverse side of the leaves, mite colonies can settle, which cause speckles to appear on the leaves; in case of severe damage, the leaves fall off. These pests are eliminated by processing plants with acaricides. In addition, keeping in mind that mites do not like high humidity, it is useful to often spray the plant with water.

Acquisition

Buy well-formed plants, taking into account the intended planting location (garden, balcony, room) and depending on this, choosing more or less hardy hybrids.

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